The bait board itself is the main event. Most quality boards arrive with the core hardware needed for a basic install — mounting brackets, drain fittings, integrated rod holders if the model includes them. But there are a handful of accessories that genuinely improve the fit-out: not nice-to-haves but items that solve real problems for serious anglers.
This article covers the five accessories worth spending on, in priority order. Skip the gimmicky upsells; spend on these.
1. Additional game-rated rod holders
If your bait board has 2 or 4 integrated rod holders, you’ve got the most-used positions covered. But for serious recreational and tournament-level fishing, additional rod holders mounted around the gunnel rail or on the leaning post unlock spread configurations the integrated holders alone can’t.
Why this matters most: rod holder count is the single biggest factor in how many lines you can deploy simultaneously, and on a serious offshore or tournament boat, that’s the difference between catching the fish that’s there and watching it swim past.
What to look for:
- 316 marine-grade stainless steel construction. Anything less corrodes at the welds and bolt joints within 2–3 seasons of saltwater use.
- Game-rated load capacity if you’re targeting heavy species. Marlin, tuna, kingfish, sailfish — these put 30–50+ kg of sustained drag through a holder during a fight, plus shock loads when the fish runs. Cheap holders deform or pull out.
- Through-bolted mounting, not screw-in. A screw-in rod holder will eventually loosen under repeated load. Through-bolted holders with backing plates spread the load and stay locked.
- Angle suited to your boat type. Trolling rods sit at a different angle than jigging rods. Centre-console boats benefit from rocket-launcher-style vertical holders; gunnel-mounted holders typically angle outboard at 15–20 degrees.
The SeaKing game-rated rod holder (product page) is the standalone version of the rod holders integrated into our bait boards. 316 stainless, game-rated, through-bolted, 15-degree gunnel angle. Drop-in compatible with any flat surface that accepts a 50 mm hole.
What to skip: “fishing boat rod holder kits” sold at general-purpose marine stores for $30–$50 a piece. Often 304 stainless or worse, often welded poorly, and rarely game-rated even when described as such.
Realistic price: $80–$150 per quality 316 stainless game-rated holder. Plan for 2–4 additional holders depending on fishing style.
2. Marine-grade mounting hardware kits
The mounting hardware that ships with most bait boards covers the standard installation case — a flat-mount board on a typical fibreglass gunnel with bolts of the right length for a typical gunnel thickness. If your installation is non-standard, you need a hardware kit upgrade.
Why this matters: the wrong fastener is the leading cause of bait board hardware failure. Stainless that isn’t 316. Bolts the wrong length so they don’t fully thread the nylock nut. No backing plate. No anti-seize compound. Each one of these mistakes is a slow-motion failure waiting 3–5 seasons to surface.
What to look for:
- 316 marine-grade stainless bolts, washers, and nylock nuts — not “stainless” without the grade specified
- Stainless backing plates sized for your bolt pattern (penny washers are the minimum, backing plates are better)
- Marine polyurethane sealant (Sikaflex 291 or 3M 4000UV) — not silicone
- Anti-seize compound rated for stainless-on-stainless thread engagement
- Bolt lengths matched to your specific gunnel thickness — measure before buying
For non-standard installations (custom mounts, leg-mount on unusual leaning post diameters, transom-shelf mounting on older boats), we can supply additional hardware kits matched to your specific configuration.
What to skip: generic “marine fastener packs” from auto-parts stores. Cheaper but rarely 316, and the bolt lengths are usually wrong for marine fit-out.
Realistic price: $40–$120 for a complete upgrade hardware kit depending on bolt count and backing plate spec.
3. Drainage upgrade — hose, through-hull fitting, or drain extension
The drain fitting that ships with most bait boards is functional — it lets the sink drain cleanly. But where the drain flows to is often left up to the installer, and the standard outcomes are often suboptimal.
The three drainage outcomes:
A. Drain hose to the bilge (the lazy install). Bait blood and scales flow into the boat’s bilge. Smells terrible, breeds bacteria, and means your bilge pump is moving dirty water rather than clean. Strongly avoid.
B. Drain hose over the gunnel (the partial fix). A hose runs from the drain fitting over the side of the boat. Better than draining into the bilge, but the hose flaps in wind, looks untidy, and stays wet between trips. Workable on a budget install.
C. Through-hull skin fitting (the proper solution). A dedicated drain through the hull, below the waterline, fitted with a marine through-hull fitting and a length of marine-grade hose connecting the bait board drain to the through-hull. Clean, permanent, drains directly overboard.
Why upgrading drainage matters: offshore and serious recreational fishing produces enough waste that the drainage path becomes critical. Cheap drainage means a smelly boat after every trip. Proper drainage means a clean working environment.
What to look for:
- 316 marine-grade through-hull skin fitting with a backed-bronze or stainless threaded barb
- Marine-grade hose rated for fish/waste fluids — at least 25 mm internal diameter to avoid clogging
- Stainless hose clamps at both ends of the hose run
- Optional: a small mesh strainer at the sink end of the drain to catch scales and prevent partial clogs
We can supply the bait board drainage upgrade kit on request — the bait board itself ships with the drain fitting; the through-hull and hose are typically supplied separately.
Realistic price: $80–$200 for a complete drainage upgrade kit depending on hose length and fitting choice.
4. Filleting knife set with on-board storage
Most quality bait boards have an integrated knife tray as part of the cutting surface design. What gets stored in that tray makes a big difference to your day on the water.
Why this matters: a filleting knife that lives in a drawer in the boat cabin is a knife that’s not where you need it when you’re processing a fish. A knife that lives in the bait board’s integrated tray is right there.
What to look for in marine-suitable filleting knives:
- High-carbon stainless steel blade that holds an edge without rusting. German or Japanese steel is preferred but quality Chinese marine knives are now competitive.
- Flexible filleting blade in 6 to 9 inch lengths. The 7-inch length suits most Australian recreational catch (snapper, kingfish, small tuna). 9-inch for larger species.
- Non-slip grip handle that stays grippy when wet. Avoid wooden handles for marine use — they absorb water and develop bacterial growth.
- Sheath for safe storage in the knife tray. Some bait board knife trays have integrated sheath slots; others don’t.
What to skip: kitchen-grade carbon steel knives. They rust within weeks of marine use no matter how well you dry them. Stick with stainless.
Realistic price: $60–$150 for a quality marine filleting knife. A basic set of three (small, medium, large) sits at $150–$300.
We don’t sell knives directly — they’re stocked at most fishing tackle retailers and at marine-supply stores. BCF, Anaconda, and Mariner Outboards have decent ranges in store.
5. Bait board care kit — cleaning supplies + maintenance products
The cheapest accessory on the list, and arguably the highest return-on-spend. A small kit of the right cleaning supplies extends a quality bait board’s lifespan from “5+ years” to “10+ years” with almost no effort.
What to include:
- Marine-grade boat wash for routine cleaning (e.g. Star Brite, Septone Boat Bright). Doesn’t strip wax or gelcoat sealants the way harsh detergents do.
- Soft-bristle brush for scrubbing the cutting surface and sink. Avoid abrasive scouring pads — they scratch the PE plastic and dull the gelcoat.
- Diluted bleach (1:10 with water) for occasional deep-clean of the cutting surface. Removes stubborn fish blood stains and any biofilm. Safe on PE plastic; rinse thoroughly afterwards.
- Marine-grade gelcoat polish (e.g. 3M Marine Restorer & Wax, Star Brite Premium Marine Polish) for an annual gelcoat refresh. Restores shine and reapplies a UV protective layer. Application is about 30 minutes once a year.
- Silicone spray for stainless hardware threads. Light coat once a year prevents salt build-up and keeps bolts removable when needed for service.
- Soft microfibre cloths for application and drying. Cheap, effective, won’t scratch.
What to skip: specialist bait board cleaners, “marine grade UV protectant for plastics,” and most gimmicky one-product solutions. The general-purpose marine products do the job.
Realistic price: $50–$80 for a complete care kit that lasts 12+ months.
What we’d skip
A few accessory categories that get marketed but rarely justify the spend:
- “Premium” bait board covers. A board that’s properly sealed at install doesn’t need a cover. A cover that traps salt water against the surface can actually accelerate hardware corrosion.
- Aftermarket retention nets. If your board doesn’t have a retention lip and you need one, replace the board — don’t bolt on a net.
- LED lighting kits marketed for night-fishing bait boards. Most modern boats already have deck floods that cover the bait board area; extra dedicated lights are usually redundant.
- Magnetic knife mounts. Sound clever; rarely work in practice. Magnets corrode in salt air and lose strength.
- “Multi-tool” bait boards. Boards that try to do too much (bait prep + tackle storage + filleting + cup holder + livewell connection in one unit) compromise on every dimension. Better to have a quality bait board and separate dedicated solutions for tackle, livewell, etc.
Bringing it together — sensible spending levels
For a typical recreational angler buying a quality bait board:
| Category | Spend range |
|---|---|
| The board itself | $400–$900 |
| Mounting hardware upgrade | $40–$120 |
| Drainage upgrade (through-hull fitting) | $80–$200 |
| Additional rod holders (2–4) | $160–$600 |
| Knife set | $150–$300 |
| Care kit | $50–$80 |
| Total fit-out | $880–$2,200 |
This is the difference between a barely-functional install and a properly equipped fishing setup that lasts a decade. Skimping in this category often means re-doing the whole fit-out in 3–5 seasons.
For browsing what we stock:
Or get in touch directly — we can advise which accessories actually matter for your specific setup, and which are unnecessary upsells.